motoring on through gers & tarn & aveyron

 

…SO WE BREAKFASTED IN CONDOM, not en route as is most usual, to compensate for not having been about a bit the previous evening on account of the threat of rain and general lassitude. 

We took our breakfast across the road from the sandstone walls of the former cathedral of Saint Pierre, just up from the sculpture of your four musketeers which graces this space. 

The church was clad overall in scaffolding as is often the case in our experience. Many have been the edifices we have sought out, only to find the object of our attentions to be deeply disfigured by temporary plank-and-rail examples of the scaffolders' art, associated with repair restoration and revitalising. 

Anyway, we found our way in and were delighted with the space inside, the atypically complex vaulting, not common in France, the fine clerestory windows and the modern and creative extension of a useable space by application of a central awning over the cloisters. Tres bien.

The avoidance of most of the typical ecclesiastical paraphernalia was noted. Simple gracious spaces, calming and inspiring even to heathens such as ourselves. Tres bien again.

At last we tore ourselves away – au revoir Condom,   – and went off along the intended pathway, only deviating from same to locate somewhere half reasonable to take our lunchtime break. The river Tarn had been crossed, noted, and then sequested for this task: we followed a diminishing track marked to the port outside a nondescript townlet and found a waterside bench which served. Good tucker ensued if I recall.

Incidentally dear reader, may I point out once again that if you want historical background to Condom and the next place of particular interest you can look it up all by yourself. This ramble isn't up to such detail although one is tempted to try and give an outline when one stumbles across Sainte Cécile in Albi (that's Saint Cecilia in Eng.).

You'll be familiar with this edifice already no doubt: we've come this way several times before you know and we like that austere exterior with a passion. Inside? Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear. It is so bad, its good! And a real tourist honeypot to boot! You could do worse than referring to Banister-Fletcher (A History of Architecture on the Comparative Method) which is where I learnt all about this weird concoction, as a svelte sixth-former doing his A-level Art studies. I had (and still have) my own copy of this seminal work albeit the 1954 edition. Great heavens, it is built of roman red brick, literally for God's Sake! Except it had to double as a fortress. Cathars and stuff. Read it up.

Whatever you think, it is one of the most remarkable cathedrals in Fr, but one wonders just how much time was dedicated to 'decorating' its interior. Perhaps during a particularly long siege? Believe me there is no surface inside that isn't covered in paint, carving, pattern and the dreaded catholic ecclesiastical paraphernalia. One feels slightly nauseous in there, rather overawed outside… And it is always hot in Albi it seems.

Enough already! This post, this blog, isn’t about a lot of things and amongst those things it isn’t about is the development of gothic vaulting as compared within the different periods of gothic architecture in Western Europe, as compared to the full fruition of vaulting that reached its apogee in Great Britain. We mooched back to the parking spot we had secured, after an appropriately expensive but refreshing drink at a nearby bar…… and motored on.

We were enchanted to return to this area of country, it is most fair. We came almost unexpectedly to pass under Le Viaduc de Millau and shortly thereafter washed up at the Ibis Budget on the hill, a favourite of ours (although Dr G had not ever signed in here: she was more used to the central city address, but we’ve done staying there as parking is, or can be un cauchemar…) 

What’s more, the beaming hotel manager recommended, without reservation, the extensive restaurant complex just above the hotel on the hill, citing its use of local produce etc etc. I was naturally dubious (Mr 10% possibly?) but happy not to have try our luck in Millau again, and as Dr G was amenable, we strolled up the slope and dined at the recommended eatery. I can confirm that it ticked nearly all the boxes. And Ibis budget though this stopover may be, I can confirm it also ticks all the boxes, even to the extent that it is better than many Ibis (standard) hotels we have patronised. As if you cared, — what the **** is he going on about, hotels and all that, cripes, old son lay off it will you, if you’ve nothing to say further on this stage of your journey just finish it right now, capiche? 

OK already, yeah, right! This post ends here.