onwards and upwards march 2022

IT IS APRIL FIRST and aficionados of Driving on the Right must clearly be in despair by now at the non appearance of any witty intelligence concerning 2022 in this epic… until now. They may have missed a brief featuring of my first post, itemising a planned excursion to and from Provence, subsequently withdrawn as it was posted only to inform myself and other members of the party, not to assuage the appetites of those whose very lives are punctuated and enriched by the singular events and vicissitudes associated with our travels to and from our southern quarters, down here in the S of F. 

Here’s the route then. Get your A4 wiro-bound Michelin out and trace our journey, why don’t you? You will note we risked a transit through a section of the Gorges du Tarn (almost empty) and came up and over the Corniche Des Cévennes even though the motor did not sport the all-weather/winter/studded tyres or chains recently stipulated as de rigeur for this high level (and many others) road, up until March 31st (there was no snow on the road and only a touch either side on the highest bit). 

You will see that we patronised three hotels en route, all satisfactory to good, but will not be able to detect (it is not indicated on the itinerary illustrated herewith) that we found time to give our passenger a view of the underside of the Viaduc de Millau: it’s the sort of thing we are happy to provide to those inquisitive enough to travel with us, if opportunity allows. Note the underside view offered at the foot of this report.

Yes, we were travelling for a second time with Dr G riding shotgun, and I hope she concurs, we did so with even less acrimony betwixt self and Mme M than heretofore. It all went to plan. We arrived at 1r-FB at a civilised hour of the day and set about getting the place up to an inhabitable temperature, shutters open while Fafner, the God of Central Heating was awakend from its winter slumbers and set to roaring away in our garage complex. We burnt the oil, notwithstanding the blood curdling prices anticipated to replace the stuff, now that our reservoir is almost down to less than a quarter full. 

The hoopoe that is attached to the banner image above, was one of two Mme Melling not only spotted on our way to the market in St Cecile but managed to snap aussi! OK so it is out of focus slightly but what the hell. I use it with her express permission.

And it was at about this time that Dr G indicated that she wouldn’t say no to another look at Le Géant, having been taken up there on her first visit to Sabbers, and having been taken with it, as an objective. No matter to her that the summit would be most likely closed to vehicular traffic. She wanted to be up there and up there asap. So, on our first Monday back at our Provence base, that is where we went…

NB: My editorial associates have pointed out that I have misnamed the town of Corps Nuds on the 'en route' montage that I have included above. I apologise to all those offended by my error (including the citizens of the settlement concerned) but I have no intention of correcting it:technically this would (in my opinion) involve me in rather more effort that the correction warrants. 

Anyway, why is a town called naked bodies? Their church, I am informed by the son-and-heir, was used in German wartime propaganda films promoting their WW11 invasions etc in the East, i.e. Russia. It does look very Russian, you have to agree…… there is more about the place on the internet of course, but I've probably lost you already on that score… go on, go on,  improve your mind, why don't you? Suit yourself. 

fontaine

When we finally capitulated and first went off to that honeypot-of- honeypots, Fontaine de Vaucluse, it was a wet day in a moderately wet autumn. We, the family Melling Smith (complete with son-&-heir) decided that November was probably far enough out of season to meet our low levels of tolerance for our fellow man in honeypot type locations and anyway it was raining. That was back in 2019. 

It was a good trip and a worthwhile visit. The resurgence (which is what the Fontaine de Vaucluse is, of La Sorgue river, which bursts, trickles or surges out from a vast underground river and cave system, still only partially understood, explored and mapped) was looking rather calm but deep, at the foot of the towering limestone cliffs. But the rocky river bed leading away from this initial, unearthly green pool, which the resurgence wells up into, was loud with white water and seething pools: so it was going some. I understand on occasion the Fontaine can be even more impressive but this was fine for us. At our age we need to keep excitement down to modest levels. The Chinese visitors we encountered on that rainy day seemed reasonably pleased given the number of 'selfies' they set up in the public viewing area: they dedicated a good ten minutes to securing the snaps and may have even given the fontaine landscape a glance or two to back up their visit. Conjecture of course, I am sure they will have done the F-de-V justice pictorially. Hmm. 

In 2022 we agreed to take Dr G. to see the phenomenon on the basis that it was very early season, so the hordes might may even yet have not descended (we were right) and that the resurgence might be in full flow as we were just coming out of winter (we were wrong). Luckily Dr G is pragmatic enough to accept matters as they are when it comes to natural wonders —knowledgeable enough about limestone systems, rivers, caves and all that sort of geography (she lives in similar environments back in the motherland) to appreciate the evidence of what the resurgence must be like when on top form from the evidence exhibited by the river in repose. 

Madame Melling decided to capitalise on the low water levels appertaining and ignoring interdit notices concerning the risk of falling cliff faces etc., gamely took herself over the public guard rails to get a closer view of the gaping maw from which the river issues. The rest of our party followed suit I am ashamed to say. No cliffs fell on us and we were able to wonder at the hidden depths at first hand. Worth it. No on-the-spot fines were issued. You'll note that Mrs M is well below the apparent winter water level as witnessed in our November 2019 excursion: the shrub in the 2019 picture is just visible on the left, coming into leaf, in the 2022 picture. See what I mean? 

The montage I display here shows the last few metres of route-way to the public viewing area, (top left), the crime being committed, the gaping maw, or bottomless pool (lower right) together with more general river detail in the vicinity of the town itself. Quite a nice day, this visit. 

We extended our spring excursion by giving Dr G the chance to experience a bit of canal-side walking along the Canal de Carpentras including the airy crossing of the aquaduct that graces the valley within which Fontaine de Vaucluse is situated. We did the same in November 2019 when the son and heir was similarly introduced (Mrs Melling and Mr Smith having already 'done' the aqueduct in connection with their explorations of the previously mentioned canal and the subject of an earlier post in this blog: regular clientele will recall it fondly I am sure, but here's a link if you need to get out more, but are not doing so right now, but want to refresh). 

Rounds off the Sorgue valley rather well, don't you think? Man's endeavours can enhance the landscape and here's a case in point……

The lower two snaps herewith are of course November 2019 views; in 2022 the canal was running clear and it was dry underfoot. 

And excessively sunny, I was overdressed.