another trudge to the north (spring '24)

 

I’m sure we’ll be back to making our first stop at Sarlat-la-Canéda soon but for this departure of such sweet sorrow (we weren’t ready to call it a day, Sabletside) we decided to run for Cahors. The vast diversion we have been put to when trying to access Sarlat in the last two or three visits, just when one is beginning to opine that we’ve done quite enough miles for the day (it is a long way anyhow), plus the distinct, implicit message from the rear seat, (come on chaps, try something else) brought Mme Melling to suggest a return to the Cahors overnighter instead, but this time going via the southern Cévennes to Millau. So that is what we did. The planned route home brings up the end of this post, so there is no excuse for getting lost. 

Again, this entry is really my record (I simply quote my daily log below) so if you have stumbled on this post I have to tell you now it is going to be bland. Give it a miss. I won’t hold it against you… the odd snap I insert in might appeal I suppose.

So: Michelin pages 285 through to 260: Sablet to Cahors

“Departure day, at 0700. Fine weather, cooler. Bought croissants at Caderousse and ate them with coffee at St Victor. Very pleasant drive through the Larzac and to sunny Millau, after which it got a bit cloudier on the leg to Cahors which we arrived at, at 1540. Ate the sandwiches Mary bought yesterday in Sablet under a range of wind turbines just in view of Rodez. Very easy journey, flowers all the way… Ate again in greyed over Cahors, same bistro”. 

note: I still don’t care much for either the Ibis hotel or Cahors itself – beyond the lovely bridge and river that is. Add to that M’s aspiration to eat riverside being thwarted by mother’s day bookings (tsch) and a grey end to the day plus yours truly being a bit limpy… even though our eventual restaurant managed once more to feed us adequately (there must be others, where are they, fgs?). Good beds though even though no view from our window at all at all.

Michelin pages 259/8 through to 200: Cahors to La Rochelle

"Grey morning drizzly and the odd shower. Got away at 0712. Breakfast about 0800 cheerful boulangerie in Prayssac which did us sandwiches. Good journey mostly quiet roads, ate lunch at Port Maubert, did a short walk into the reeds (reed warblers and or reed buntings). En route saw various birds of prey and a sodden field with storks grazing. Went to Pointe des Minimes beach etc now pretty warm and very sunny. Hotel at 1645, Kyriad, got the floor 4 front corner room again — 407 (as in autumn 2022). excellent. Ate in the usual place next door."  

note: Prayssac boulangerie again. Lovely outlet! First class croissants as heretofore and their made-to-order baguettes were très bien aussi when we confronted them on the Gironde estuary. After that we had time to spare so walked part of the reedbed trackway, then upon arrival in La Rochelle, took ourselves down to Pointe des Minimes to acquaint Adam with the singular lighthouse there: read all about le phare au bout du monde in my pharesighted blog, it is rather intriguing. Here is a link! I was seriously a walking casualty, after trudging to the point, but recovered in time for supper.

Michelin pages 200 through to 71: La Rochelle to Roscoff

"Mostly a grey day with occasional light rain showers. Left La Rochelle at 0700 and stopped an hour later at Ste Hermine for superb croissants eaten with supplied coffee and purchase of excellent filled baguettes. Stopped briefly at Loire crossing, Ancenis bridge. 

A long rather tiring day with a lot of traffic and a very long and tedious deviation, adding unnecessary mileage to an already long day. Probably not a good route overall. Managed to get inside Corps Nud church, impressive. Addressed sandwiches thereafter. Arrived in persistent rain at Roscoff hotel 1700. 329 miles. Hmm. But room has sea view! Not much to see though due to maritime murk. Chilly, ate at Surcouf, naturally." 

note: at Ancenis I felt that we were leaving Fr proper, as I always do when crossing the Loire (or returning to, depending on direction of travel). We addressed our sandwiches on a farm house drive in the drizzle, after dropping in at Corps Nud, the Russian style basilica and that, inside and out (see left) to Adam, a first visit for him. It involved no nudity. Roscoff busy, parking near the hotel essential (as it was raining pluralistically) but only just getting tucked in, and in there. Hotel good, our third visit. Surcouf not quite as toothsome as it used to be (we feel) although my huîtres were top flight. 

(Michelin Atlas returned to store) And finally:
"Got up early, watched Pont Aven docking distantly, still raining… intent on breakfast but usual boulangerie spot was closed so visited the popular corner bar where we had the biggest grande-crêmes known to man. And good! Ship sailed half an hour late, reasonably full. Comfortable throughout, Mary did not use the four-berth day-cabin she had booked at all. Weather cleared for arrival in Plymouth 1330 and we were on the road home at 13.45. Stopped for fuel and diverted to Luxtons at Okehampton for pasty shop etc. Arrived Cheldon via Winkleigh at 1600. Garden a wilderness of flowers, cistus and laburnum in their prime."

That’s it.

Now which way shall we go back, in September, Mrs Melling? You’ve booked the boat already? Great heavens. Better get to it and sort it then! A four stager you think?

Bonus: thinking of matrimonial malarkey? Why not blow your family life savings by doing it in style at a fabulous folly? We stopped off to ogle at this faux château somewhere near Châteaubriant, before we got rather misdirected by one last and lengthy route barrée. (We shouldn't have been anywhere near Châteaubriant anyway, it was a bit off our planned route back, wasn't it?) The splicing business must have some well heeled takers… it's at a place called Challain-La-Potherie, for the record. You'll find it on line no doubt. It is mid 19th century by the way, hence my 'faux' classification.